Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Monday 22nd

We caught up on blog postings a bit yesterday, but are still behind.  Right now as I begin this writing, it is Wednesday morning, and we are sitting in St. Peter's Square, awaiting our Papal audience with tens of thousands of our closest...friends.

Anyway, we began Monday morning by going to the Temple Mount.  This required a much more stringent security than the Western Wall, as they fear zealots from other religions attempting to destroy the sites up there.  They also forbid bringing multiple religious articles (which might be passed out as a means of proselytizing), or any form of Bible, or any alcohol (sorry, no flasks).
Al Aqsa Mosque
Our first stop, was outside the Al Aqsa Mosque.  According to Muslim tradition, Mohammed rode a winged horse all through a day, and landed at the end of the day at the "farthest point" (from Mecca, I presume?).  He then climbed a ladder where God confirmed everything he (Mohammed) had taught.  Then he flew back the next day.  Well, the tradition never quite said what direction he went on the horse, but for some reason when Omar arrived in Jerusalem, he concluded this was the spot (possibly because the huge temple mount provided a handy platform for a ladder to Heaven).  So, the mosque commemorates that event.  Al Aqsa means (something like) farthest point. 

Dome of the Rock
On the other side of the Temple Mount, was the Dome of the Rock.  The Jewish and Muslim religions forbid "graven images", which is translated to be "anything God has made".  They cannot decorate with images of people, trees, landscapes, flowers, etc.  So, they decorate with geometric patterns and writing.  The Dome of the Rock is painted with blue and white geometric patterns and writing all around it.  The detail is fantastic!  And, of course, the 1/4 inch 24 carat gold on the dome adds to the stunning look. 

Temple Rock Panaramic with Dome of the Rock
Detail on Dome of the Rock
View on Temple Mount

Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
We left Jerusalem for En Karem, the place where John the Baptist was born.  At the site, there was a church (obviously), and in the church was a shrine with a ceramic star similar to the silver one in Bethlehem for Jesus.








 
Church on Road to Emmaus
Then we went to Abu Gosh (which means father of something), where we had Mass in a Crusader church dedicated to the appearance of Jesus to a few Disciples walking away from Jerusalem after the Crucifixion on the road to Emmaus.  They don't exactly know which way Emmaus was from Jerusalem, so there were three separate church's built (two at 7 miles and the 3rd, having some difficulty with Bible measurement, at 14 miles) along the three main routes from Jerusalem.  So, we have about a 30% chance of being in the right spot.   

 
 
 
Frescos with ablated faces
The church has beautiful frescos on the walls, but since it was built, it fell into the hands of the Muslims, who ablated the faces of all the people painted on the walls (as they believed those were graven images).  There are plans to restore the paintings, but it won't be the same.  Then again, 500 years from now, someone may amaze at the great work done now.

 
 
After Mass, we went over to a convent next door, where the nuns had a little store (and a little church) which sold, among other things, Magnum ice cream bars.  There is a long story here, but the short version is, Mary Anne and I had a pact that we would buy Magnum bars (and gelatos) at the first reasonable chance (so we passed on the $4 bars, but...).  Somehow, this camaraderie broke down into competition, so we are instead one upping each other.  I won't say who started it, but it wasn't me!!!
Finally, we left for the airport in Tel Aviv.  On the bus we were briefed as to what to expect for the security procedures.  At one point, going in, the bus was stopped and the guard asked the guide and driver a few questions, including the nationality of the group.  Then he stepped up, and said "Hello everyone!" to which we all replied "Hello!" (or something similar).  Passed the first test (American accents)!!

Inside the airport, we lined up (several times), and while waiting in the first line, a few of us were pulled out of line and ask random questions.  The guard came up to us and asked Theresa and I what our relationship to each other was.  I thought of saying "lovers", but wasn't sure the guard would be enamored.
Going through Immigration, the officer was more interested in chatting through the window with his fellow officer in the next cubicle than even looking at us.  OK, she was rather pretty, but I would think looking at the people in front of you at least once might have been appropriate.

Inside, it was, well, an airport.  This inherently means I was excited and looking everywhere for cool or unique airplanes or liveries (paint schemes), and Theresa was nonplussed.  We found lunch at a little fast food hamburger joint and ate with our friends Mike and Mary Anne. 













The flight...well, it was coach.  But we flew El Al, on a 737-700 withOUT winglets!!  :-O  I was incredulous.  I had a middle seat and Theresa the aisle.  As distressing as this was, it does mean the next time we are in coach, it is Theresa's "turn" for the middle.  Since flights back to the US are not looking promising for upgrades...  :-)

 
 
After arriving in Fiumicino (where the main Rome airport is), we went through customs for the fourth time in FCO in the last 5.5 years.  The officer must have recognized us, because he didn't even open our passports, and waved us through as we walked up (with even more disinterest than in TLV).  Well!
Oddly enough, our hotel in Rome is Hotel Emmaus.  It is a quaint little hotel, with a quaint little elevator, easily accommodating 2 or maybe even 3 people at a time (or their bags, but hardly both!).  We kind of wanted a little something to eat, but not a full meal.  But our choices were, the planned dinner for us, or nothing.  Theresa and I took the dinner option.  It was a 1-2 minute walk (for most people, not just me, Ken!) from the hotel.  But the little food we wanted, took three courses and 2 hours.  The first course, pasta, was fantastic!  (We should have left at that point.)  It had BACON!!!!  We hadn't had (or even smelled) bacon since London.  What a delight!  And it had cheese, right on top of the meat!!  Oh, my!  The next course, several minutes later, was a pork dish.  The pork was OK, but nothing to write home about.  We were told dessert was NOT to be missed, but the waitress didn't know even what it was.  So, I was a bit dubious on her ravings of it.  Well, we started dinner with 6 of us (including our guide), but ended at dessert with Theresa and I asking for it to go.  She tried to give us all five desserts, but we passed.  It was...eh.  Some creamy thing (sweetened ricotta cheese) on top of two dry cookies.  We got home unpacked a little had our dessert, and to bed.

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