Yangtze River Day 1-Friday 13-SEP

Within the first of the three gorges.

Theresa woke very early, as we were beginning to move into and through the first gorge.  She quickly got dressed and headed up to the top of the boat for some great scenery while continued to enjoy the view of the inside of my eyelids.  The views were great, and matched her expectation for the cruise.  The mist hung heavy in the air, dampening sound and color, giving a bluish (?) hue and eerie silence to the scene.  The Yangtze river wends between the mountainsides as they plunge below the water on both sides.  Little buildings cling to the steep slopes, some new, some old.  The river height here is raised significantly, though not so much as to mitigate the visual depth of the gorge.

An inlet to the first gorge.

After breakfast, there was an optional tour to a little village.  On the one hand, it sounded like a classic ancient village, with the sort of scenes one might think of with the ancient Chinese art.  On the other hand, as it was rebuilt in the last decade, we had visions of a low budget Disneyland/Epcot mockup.  We passed on the tour, but many others in our tour group took it and were very happy.  It was very picturesque and everything they hoped it would be.  I guess in retrospect, we might have looked at it more like Williamsburg, VA, and less like Epcot.  (Not to besmirch Disney in any way!) 

Regardless, we stayed back and listened to a presentation about the Yangtze River.  It is apparently the 4^th or 5^th longest river in the world, behind Nile, Amazon, and Yellow (also China), and within 50 miles of the Mississippi.  It used to be shallow in many parts, and so had many rapids, and made it unsafe to navigate.  So, the locals pulled the boats up (or down) stream with ropes from the shore.  They were called “trackers”.  It was the lowest position, below ditch digger, even.  The pecking order was trackers on the bottom, then blacksmiths, then tofu makers just above that.  I’m not sure

Recent walkways along the second gorge.

why tofu makers are at the bottom, but I have no value for their work, so…?  Anyway, it was wretched work, and one’s body sweat all over.  Since wet fabric on wet skin is not healthy, they worked naked.  There was even some black and white footage of them working (in the 20’s or so).  But, as the river tours became more prevalent, the government decided naked men on the shores was unseemly, and made them wear shorts.  That was about in the 50’s.  Ultimately, the government decided to dam the river and build locks, a power plant, and a visitor center.  Now the river is a veritable highway of ships going each way with raw materials and finished goods.  We were almost never alone on the river, and often either passing or being passed.  It was like I-75 in Kentucky.

Chinese Junk (of the boat variety)

Village in the gorge with junks.

Out boat (left) and theirs (right)

After lunch, our boat pulled along another boat, side to side, and we disembarked from ours, through theirs to dock.  Their ship was much nicer, so we ogled as we tramped through their glitzy lobby.  We boarded busses and headed to the Three Gorges Dam Project.  There were a few views on the way through the dirty bus windows.  Fortunately, there were sets of escalators to the top.  They were a fine brand of escalator (TK, for the one who cares! ;-) and seemed in good condition, especially as they were outside.  We arrived at a visitor’s center where our tour guide was already halfway through his explanation.  It was clear and sunny, which let us see for miles and enjoy the view, but it was hot and still, so we were all wet and nasty when we got back to the bus.

After we returned to the boat, we (the boat) got in line for going through the locks.  Our slot was 6PM, but that did not seem to imply an actually entrance time.  There are five locks from the bottom to the top of the dam.  There is also a ship elevator, but it wasn’t finished, so we did not see it.  These locks are as wide as the Panama canal locks, but only about 2/3 as long.  Since they really only handle river boats, that isn’t much of an issue.  So, they cram as many in as they can fit.  I think we went up with 5 or 6 boats in our lock.

One of several markets we walked passed.

Locks.  The blue signs on the doors say "North" and "Six".

Lock at low water level.

Locks from the visitor center overlook.

Ship elevator (not complete).

Ship elevator on left side.

Confused window washers?

Our neighbor in the locks.  (Granite slabs for cargo)

Dinner from the canal?  Lox from the Locks?

There was a bit of time to kill, so a few of the ship's workers took to fishing.  I missed it, but I heard the oohs and aahs when one of them snagged a fish.  So, I have no proof of my fish story.  But it was thiiiiiiiiiiiiis big!!!

In the evening, there was a “Captain’s Reception” with drinks (beer, wine, and champagne) followed by dinner.  It was a nice dinner, and we sat with new and old friends, and had some great laughs.  I won’t get into it, but now the ladies can write their names in the snow…perhaps!