Terra Cotta Warriors-Wednesday 11-SEP

This morning the breakfast was a buffet.  This is not really different, but the set up was not at all planned out, like the other hotels, but ad hoc.  They had the food tables lined up in the hall, and the conference rooms were the dining areas.  One of the tables sat across the fire hose cabinet.  So, had there been a fire, the tables and food would have to be moved out of the way first!  Great plan, guys!!

City Wall around Xian

Xian is a rather large city, with about 7 million people.  It is also the largest city to retain its city wall, complete and intact.  Obviously, the entire city is no longer bounded by the wall, and the traffic is hampered by the limited paths in and out.  Regardless, it is a spectacular sight, especially at night when they light up the top.  We were never able to get a decent picture of that, but it is worth noting.  They are constantly building high rise apartment buildings and as we drove in from the airport, we saw a construction site with about 12 identical buildings, 20-30 stories tall in work (hard to tell the exact size at night by the work lights).  In fact, in Beijing, they said any buildings less than 6 stories tall, which are not of historical significance, were being systematically replaced with high rises (at least 20 stories).  They also told us that up to 20 years ago, they did not build anything over 9 stories because China did not have technology to build elevators.  That seems like a dubious claim, as the technology is over 100 years old and there are buildings with elevators that are over 50 years old, and the Chinese are masters of reverse engineering.

The first "pit".

Our primary reason for being in Xian was to see the Terra Cotta warriors.  So, that was the first order of business.  It, like the airport, was about an hour away.  There were ultimately four pits discovered, but only three were opened.  The first pit discovered was by a farmer digging a well for water in the early 70’s.  He kept pulling up bits and pieces of terra cotta (a crude, baked, pottery), and at least one of which was a head.  So, he finally stopped and asked the local authorities what he should do.  They asked the Province authorities who in turn asked the national authorities.  Finally, a reporter in the Capital heard about it and published the story.  Finally, the right people got involved and the excavation began.

Site of the attempted well (white sign in corner).

As it happened, the well barely caught the corner of the first site.  One meter off and they would not have found the site (and we would not be here!).  The second and third sites were then found and it was determined that there were four, with a Left, Center, and Right Guard, and the fourth behind them presumably with the remains of Chin himself.  So out of respect, they decided not to open that tomb (at least for now). 

 

 

 

Warriors in pit (not as found)

The warriors were originally brightly colored with lacquer paint.  But most of it was worn off, and what was left faded quickly.  So they intentionally slowed (or delayed) the pace of the excavation so that the technology for preserving the colors might catch up and the future relics might be better preserved.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Close up of faces (and a missing head)

A horse, of course!

Yes, we were REALLY there!!

This does not look like fun!  But with 1.3 billion people, labor is cheap!

The average warrior is about 5'9".

I don't think that barrier will keep the horses in place.

"Refurbished" warriors (reassembled, more accurately)

Impression from a wooden wagon wheel.

One of the areas as it was found (with dirt removed)

The pits had approach ramps, and walls, and tile on the floors.  Then timber beams were used to create a roof.  The timber was covered with mats, and then 6 feet of clay.  But, Chin was not especially popular at the time, and was known for severe punishment.  So, as the story goes, when the farmers were going to the funeral, they were stopped by a river swollen by heavy rain.  Knowing they would be executed for being late, they decided to revolt (having nothing to lose).  But, it was illegal for them to have any weapons at all, so they broke into the tomb, stole the weapons from the tomb, and revolted.

Panoramic of pit #2 (curve is side effect of panoramic, and not accurate).  Note "before" and "after" on Left and Right sides.

Terra cotta pieces as found.

So here is the quandary…The ministers executed everyone who worked on the pits so the location was secret and secure.  How did the farmers know where to go??  And, I get the heat of the moment that might incite a revolt, but how does one hold that boiling blood while digging through 6 feet of clay, then through the doors or roof?  Supposedly, they torched the place, but wood doesn’t burn very well when under 6 feet of clay, and with very limited air flow.  Regardless, there were burn areas where something was on fire.

 

Horse (in a glass case)

At some time the wood beams collapsed, and the earth above fell in damaging most of what was inside.  In fact, of the 6000 warriors discovered, only one was found not broken—a kneeling archer.  Our “local tour guide” (who seemed to be about 40-50?) told us about when she first saw “him”.   When she grew up, she wore homemade shoes, made from old sheets and clothes, which were wrapped and sewn with extra stitching on the heels and the balls of the feet, so they would last longer.  She noticed that on the bottom of the kneeling archer’s foot was a pattern that was just like the soles of her home made shoes.  It is almost staggering to think shoes made for Chinese children merely 50 years ago were substantially the same as those made over 2200 years ago!

Kneeling Archer (and a bunch of people)

Kneeling Archer.  Note the shoe sole.

 

 

Tang Dynasty show.

We spent the entire day at the site, so returned for dinner and then out for a “Tang Dynasty” show.  It was a display of music and costumes and some cultural tidbits from the Tang Dynasty, which was one of the early dynasties in China, something like 1500-2000 years ago.  It is considered by some to be the beginning of Chinese culture, or the epitome of it.  There was dancing and jumping and fake fighting, all theatrical and artsy.  And flowy and showy costumes, too.  Yay.  I think Theresa liked it.  They did have free drinks, well, drink.  We were not among the lucky ones who got what was requested.  We eventually got what we wanted, but it was interesting trying.

Traditional Chinese musical instruments.
Is she going to Alabama?