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| This is where Reagan and Gorbechov met to end the Cold War. |
This is
our first full day of tour. We got up
early as our bags had to be out for pickup at 7:15, and then we were to be on the bus at 7:45. It was a little bit of a scramble, but we
made it with a couple of minutes to spare.
Before we get into the day, it is worth noting a few of our
challenges. We were only allowed to have
two bags (plus two for the bus carry on), but a few days before we left, Bill
hurt his back, so carrying things was tortuous.
So, we opted to creatively use three bags, two big checked bags, and a
carryon roller board. All we had to do
was pack the roller bag into one of the big bags, and make it work. But in the airport, Bill’s backpack could be
rolled around.
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| A hot water pipeline from a geothermal well to Reykjavik. |
The next
tidbit is our back packs.
They were
complimentary from a previous cruise, but since they are water resistant, we
thought that was ideal.
Except, while
getting ready at home, one of the straps snapped (probably dry rotted).
Well, it was a strap Bill
didn’t need, so we swapped bags and headed out.
(Theresa's note: My vote was to bring a different backpack.) On arrival, getting out of the airport, the shoulder strap broke.
Sigh.
Well, I can still hold it by the loop up top.
Nope, that started breaking.
So, I’m relegated to throwing the bag over my
shoulder, and holding the strap with my hand.
So, today we packed one back pack to just hold stuff on the bus, and the
other for carrying.
All set.
We’re off!!
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| Uh oh... |
There
was a lot of driving today, and about an hour in, we had our first “comfort
stop” (i.e. potty break). There was a
little snack shop and a small grocery store.
After a potty break, we looked quickly at the shop, and then headed over
to the grocery store because we had little else to do. Well, the short walk was about to be too
much. Bill’s left shoe sole disbanded
from the toe back. So, as I walked, the
toe flapped, then caught under, then got worse.
In the store we headed right for any adhesive or glue they had. We found something that might work and began
a creative shoe repair.
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| Theresa and Mike and MaryAnne |
The next
stop was by a wall of basalt.
This is
where the lava cools into hexagonal shafts.
The bus dropped us off at the far end, and we had the choice of walking
back or riding.
Clearly several people
presumed my obvious choice was to ride, but that’s not how Bill does things!
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| The basalt wall or hexagonal pillars. (Hexagons are the Best-agons! --(T Note-Look for the YouTube with that)) |
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| Repair. |
Well,
the adhesive wasn’t doing a great job, but it did help. On the path back, there was a piece of dirty
rope. What luck!! I started untwisting it and the bus driver
used his knife to saw the three cords off (closest to the muddiest part). Then I unwound one of the cords into the
smaller cords, and started tying the front of the shoe in ways I hoped would
hold the top and bottom together without affecting the tread. It sort of worked. But it sure wasn’t pretty!!
At the
next stop, we had the chance to walk to the rocky shore and find seals. The walk was a little more “aggressive” from
the point of my soles. But I made it out
to the water, and touched the Atlantic.
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| The Atlantic from a western peninsula of Iceland. |
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| A harbor seal. |
Back on
the bus, I noticed my right shoe was also disbonding but from the heel to the
front.
I squeezed some copious glue in,
held it and tied it as best I could.
Then found out we were only 15 minutes from the next stop, so it wasn’t
going to bond.
Oh well.
The repair works so-so, but kept popping off
of the toes.
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They bale up the hay and wrap it for protection against the weather. Locally they call them "Troll's Marshmallows" |
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| Look! Waterfalls! (many more to come) |
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| A monument to a folklore troll...near the birds. |
The next
walk was along a cliff where we could see birds huddling on tiny
outcroppings.
MaryAnne was kind enough
to point out we needed to look for the poo and there might be a bird perched above
it.
True.
The shoes held up, but it was clear they
would need repetitive inspections and adjustments.
We
stopped for a buffet lunch (which was included). They had lawn clippings, vegetables, pasta
salad, what seemed to be lamburgers, and lasagna. This lasagna did not dethrone the first one
for best in Iceland. There was also
cauliflower soup which was actually very good!!
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| Theresa liked the cave better than the birds. |
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More repair. To be clear, this is a random piece of twine, double wrapped around the foot (anchored in the tread if possible, and then knotted. So, it's not going to be pretty, but it is better than the shaggy look here! |
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| SNOW!! |
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| Starting down to the black sand beach. |
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| The black sand beach. And Theresa. |
We then
went to another location where we could walk on a black sand beach.
The walk down to the beach was visually
dramatic.
I found a starfish, and threw him
back into the surf.
I found a second,
but it wasn’t his day.
The sand and
mixed size pebbles did not mix well with my disintegrating shoes, but I got
through it.
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| He went back into the sea. |
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| About the spot where they filmed a scene from Game of Thrones. |
On a
later walk, we got to see more cliffs and I discovered some clean twine, so I
picked that up for more repair materials.
There is apparently a store in our overnight stop, but I’m hesitant
about finding a suitable, comfortable, and affordable shoe in the middle of a
remote town in Iceland.
But, my shoes
became an entertaining focus, as some of the other tourists on the bus wanted
to take pictures of the shoes, of me with the shoes, etc.
I can’t imagine this is going to be a
flattering thing but I guess it made them happy.
The bus driver was even something between
amused and incredulous, and by one of the midafternoon stops, he said it was
becoming “art”, which I don’t think meant it was a very pretty repair.
We
stopped at a lookout that was used in an episode of Game of Thrones. The waterfalls were visually and audibly
striking, and the walk down the steps was easy(ish) except for the myriad of
people stopping to try to recreate the scene while being photographed. Nothing says “original” like 20 people doing
the same pose!
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| Falls, falls, and more falls! |
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| A shark hunting boat from about 1900. |
Our last
stop was a place that processes shark meat.
Iceland has, for centuries, hunted the Greenland Shark, which is the
slowest shark known. It moves VERY
slowly, in all respects. It stays about
a mile below the surface where the water is near freezing, so they have a
chemical in them that acts as an antifreeze for the shark. But in the winter they come closer to the
surface. The sharks live about 400
years, and aren’t even reproductive ready until they are 120 years old. Long ago, they harvested it for the liver
oil, which was prized as a slow burning oil for light. People tried to eat the meat, but that
antifreeze is a toxin, and they got sick and even died. Undeterred (much like my shoes), they kept
trying things, and found that if they let it “age” and ferment, it no longer
killed them. Hanging it to “dry” for
three months allowed the urea in the flesh to convert to ammonia, giving it a
“golden crust” (as she described it).
With the advancement of electricity, the oil was no longer needed, and
they no longer hunt the sharks. But they
still get caught inadvertently. So,
Icelandic fisherman, rather than discarding it, bring it to this place to be
processed. Finally, we got to try some!
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| OK, we saw a Puffin! |
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| About to try fermented shark. |
There
were three ways to eat it. First, you
put it in this liquor that sort of tasted like gin. Give it a few seconds, and then pop it in
your mouth. It was...funky with a salty
kick. Next try it with some bread. The nice tasting bread offsets the “why are
we doing this again” flavor of the shark.
Finally, you just eat the shark directly. The texture was sort of like a chunk of
dryish fat. I would describe the flavor
as “not pleasant”. It wasn’t exactly
gross. And the flavor was sort of a
residual rotting notes with overtones of chemical contamination. The gin-like schnapps helped to offset the
shark but left it’s own mark. We were
happy to get back to the bus to find our second licorice candy and have that
aftertaste for a while.
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| A very close up look at shark skin, Those are sharp, btw! |
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| Ripening in ways that won't make it better!! |
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| Homey. |
Finally,
we arrived at the hotel, got our bags, swapped to tennis shoes, and headed down
the hill to that “store that sells everything”.
Well, they didn’t really have shoes, but they did have some rubber
version of crocs and some deep work boot that was mostly rubber. Not judging that was a better solution, we’ll
go back to the ties for now. There is an
outlet store for 66 North apparently in the place we are staying tomorrow night. And I can make it with tennis shoes tomorrow
for sure. So, we have options. Maybe. |
I have a feeling this shower is going to be messy!! |
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We spent the whole day getting to, and exploring this peninsula. |
Post Script: The volcano erupted yesterday about 9PM, 4 hours after we left the Blue Lagoon. It was closed all day today but purported intend to open tomorrow, even though the volcano is still going.
I don't know that I would have tried the aged shark meat. How magnified was the shark skin in that picture? Very cool! - KV
ReplyDeleteP.S. Great shoe repair! haha - KV
ReplyDelete