9 APR Kangaroo Island

Editor’s Note – This blog is about 60% written by Bill and 40% written by Theresa.  There was a lot of tough driving today, so Bill is pretty wiped!
Writer's Note--Who made Theresa my editor??  I'd go on about creative liberty and such, but I don't want to bore my audience.  :-)

This morning we started early with a 7:05 flight to Kingscote on Kangaroo Island (KI).  Regional Express, or REX, is the only airline that flies there.   The flight was mostly unremarkable except that the Flight Attendant was very chipper and happy.  We had low cloud cover the whole way, so there was little to see. 

Kingscote Prison, uh, Airport, I mean!

The airport is completely away from town, and nearly 15 minutes away from the bustling “city” of Kingscote, which is on the North East side of the Island.  There was same failure in the water line from the city to the airport, so the water to the whole airport was shut off.  So, no bathrooms, and no water fountains. 

For "Princess"  Happy? (inside joke)

We got on the road to Cape Borda, on the far NW corner of the Island, to see a lighthouse.  Within minutes, we came upon a kangaroo sitting in the middle of the road, almost defiantly. 

Wallaby at the lighthouse

Watching us!!

Cape Borda Lighthouse.  It is short because it is on a high bluff.

On the way to the cape, the paved road ended.  We drove the last 40 km or so on a gravel road.  We came upon a small graveyard for the lighthouse keepers and their families.  Three  families lived by the light house to manage it.  They had to pump kerosene into the lantern 24/7 from the 1850s to the early 1900s.  So, it was a very tough life.  At the lighthouse, there was a sign telling us if no one is there, we should leave our $2 each in a “box”.  The box had no lock, just a hinged lid which we had to open to put the money in.  Unimpressed with the integrity, we put two $2 coins in the box.  A few minutes later, the guide came to work and we started talking with him.  He wasn’t going to give a full tour (as we were too early), but he gave us a few minutes of what to know and what to see while there.  We were impressed with how friendly and helpful he was.  Also that this was still a working lighthouse (not a beacon house, as so many have become).  We walked around a bit, and watched a couple of kangaroos and wallabys watching us.

After we left the light house, we headed in to the “Flinders Chase” park, and down to the sights on the SW corner of the island.  The unpaved road became narrower, and not really suitable for two vehicles most of the way.  We saw an Echidna walking across the road, but didn’t stop in time to get a picture. 

One of the platypus pools

Platypus burrows beside the pool

We stopped at one of the walk paths to the Platypus Pools, a spot where platypuses might be found.  It looked like a murky swamp pool, but we stood in a few places quietly watching.  We saw several bubbles come to the surface (evidence they were there), but never got to see one directly.  Well, actually, we saw a bronze one, but we suspect you will not buy that in a picture!





















At the visitor’s center,  we were told of the new walking path that wasn’t even on the map yet.  It went through some eucalyptus trees, and we were told we might see some koalas there.  Theresa found two!  She used one of the tips given on a sign…to look for poo on the ground… then look up!  The first one was totally sleeping, just stirring enough to give us a stare when we disturbed it by walking on the tree limbs that have fallen to the ground.  But, the second one stirred a bit. 

Field of Poo

Continuing on the path, we came to a large field.  The field was completely littered with poo.  Kangaroo poo, wallaby poo, goose poo.  You could NOT make it 3 steps without stepping in something .  It was NOT pretty.  But with all that poo, there were only about 3-5 geese and a wallaby and maybe a kangaroo.  Wasn’t yet feeding time, or the field would have been full of them eating on the small, tender, grass that was all over the place!  But, due to the walk, we now can probably tell the difference between koala, kangaroo, wallaby, and goose poo… 

The place Theresa wanted to stay!  Potty on right.

After this field, we walked through May’s Homestead, which is where Theresa wanted us to stay for the night.  If we hadn’t had an 8am flight on Thursday morning, we probably would have, in a postman’s cottage (bathroom outside).  No TV…just the field of critters that come out at sunset for dinner (Theresa’s dream location, not Bill’s!),

Remarkable Rocks

After getting back to our once white, now whitish with a red tinge, car, we were back on "sealed" (paved) roads.  Went down to Remarkable Rock and did the walk up and to the rocks.  Got there just after a bus had made it (one of the ways we considered doing this tour).  The rock formation was interesting, but we are very glad we stopped there before going to our final stop – Admiral’s Arch.

Lots of Seals on the rocks



Stairs down to see Admiral's Arch

For Admiral’s Arch, you had to walk down this huge boardwalk, that was part sloped and part stairs.  You start at the top of the cliff, and make your way to the bottom.  It must have been truly hazardous to build that boardwalk…and I can’t imagine how anyone went to this Arch prior to the boardwalk being built.  As luck would have it, there is a New Zealand fur seal rookery on the rocks beneath where the boardwalk was located.  So, you could watch the little pups and Mothers on your way down and then up.  We stopped for a bit to watch a couple of pups play “King of the Hill.” The coastal scenery was spectular…and we managed to get there before the bus from Remarkable Rocks, so we were able to see it with few other people around us. 

Admiral's Arch

Admiral's Arch from the other side

Admiral’s Arch was our last “must see” item on the Island…and, as it was now 4pm, we decided to head to Kingscote.  Since we had seen in the wild kangaroos, koalas, and seals, there was no need to stop at the places that are zoo like or make you pay to come in and see them. Unfortunately, when we made it almost to Clifford’s Honey Farm, and the Eucalyptus Oil Processing center, it was already after 5pm, so we weren’t able to visit those.

Seal Pups playing king of the mountain

We overnighted in Kingscote, at a basic, but clean Motel.  Was fun to find as the online name is apparently different than the sign name.  But, it was conveniently right in town, the innkeepers were really very pleasant, and the room was clean.   We went down the road to have some Godfrey fish, scallops, and chips for dinner with some Sarsaparilla and water to wash it all down.  Only thing missing was a beer, but we made due!